Today we’re taking a deep dive into Vietnam costumes, focusing on the Ao Dai, a piece of clothing that fuses history with modernity.
We’ll chart the historical development of this iconic piece of fashion, examine its place in Vietnamese culture, and find out how it has become a national emblem.
And we’ll also explore its changing designs and continued significance across a range of cultural settings.
What is the Traditional Vietnamese Dress?
Though Vietnam has a diverse range of traditional clothing, each linked to the history and identity of the people that have lived there, the one that has found the most modern use and fame is the Ao Dai. A garment that elegantly marries tradition with contemporary aesthetics, the Ao Dai is embraced by many as one of the best visual symbols of Vietnamese culture and pride.
Characteristics of Ao Dai
The Ao Dai is typically a tight-fitting silk tunic, sometimes reaching to the ankles, worn over trousers – a combination that can be wonderfully flattering when fitted properly.
While the top, or ao, is close-fitted and includes long sleeves and a mandarin collar, the trousers are loose though the skirt of the tunic is split to the waist at the sides for maximum movement. The overall fit and cut of the Ao Dai is designed to highlight the wearer's shape.
How to put on an Ao Dai
To put on the Ao Dai, first put on a pair of trousers and then dress in the tunic top, buttoned at the front from the collar to the hem. The silhouette of the Top is figure-hugging, while still allowing for movement thanks to the skirt at the sides.
When CAn I Wear an Ao Dai?
While the Ao Dai can be an everyday dress, it is more commonly seen in formal occasions such as weddings, the Lunar New Year from Tet, or on teachers. Color can be quite important, with red an auspicious hue, white associated with purity and sometimes worn by students, while wearing black to a wedding is considered bad luck.
Wearing Ao Dai as a Tourist
Travelers can experience wearing Ao Dai for themselves by visiting tailor shops found throughout the country, but particularly in the capital, Hanoi, or HCMC, present your own design for something one-of-a-kind to take home, or have one made-to-fit by a professional. Cultural experience centers, popular in the country, will also offer the opportunity.
The Origin and Evolution of Ao Dai
Early Beginnings and Influences
The Ao Dai has a long history, reaching back to the 18th century when it was based on the áo ngũ thân, which literally means "five-part robe". The áo ngũ thân, a flowy, casual garment, was worn by both sexes of the Vietnamese upper class at the time. The loose shape of the garment offered ease of movement so that the wearer could go about their business unencumbered.
Transformation Under French Influence
The modern Ao Dai as we know it began to take shape in the 1930s, Western aesthetics began to shape Vietnamese fashion. The silhouette we now recognize—long tunic, fitted bodice, tails split on the sides from the waist down, and paired with trousers—was introduced by the Vietnamese designer Nguyen Cat Tuong (also known as Le Mur), who sought to modernize the five-part robe then still worn as an everyday article of clothing.
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Cultural Synthesis and Modernization
Over the course of the 20th century, the Ao Dai became more than just clothing, but a symbol of Vietnamese identity and femininity, reserved for special occasions like weddings, formal receptions, and Tet Lunar New Year celebrations. The garment also became more elaborate and stylized, taking on bright colors and patterns, while retaining the high collar and tight-fit bodice.
Today's Ao Dai
The Ao Dai is not merely a piece of cultural history, but a vibrant, living tradition that links the past and present of Vietnam, even as the garment evolves to match contemporary styles and tastes. Its longevity as cultural dress is a reminder of how elements of the past can shape our identity, just as the Ao Dai has through the generations.
In addition to the Ao Dai, many other Vietnamese garments have centuries—and in some cases, millennia—of history behind them, each an expression of style and culture.
Other Vietnamese Garb
Cham Garb
Worn mainly by the Cham people, this outfit takes inspiration from Hindu styles. Both men and women wear sarongs, paired with a tailored blouse, often in brightly colored hues.
Worn to: Ceremonial and religious celebrations.
Hmong Garb
Characterized by vibrantly colored embroidery and intricate patterns, Hmong dress differs between men and women, the latter wearing pleated skirts with embellishments, the former simpler tunics usually in darker shades.
Worn to: Festivals, everyday wear in hilly areas.
Northern Ethnic Garb
Aesthetically distinct from the garb of southern hill tribes, the heavy embroidery and brilliant colors are typical of these costumes. Men wear simple tunics, while women wear skirts matched with headscarves.
Worn to: Festivals, daily life in the mountains.
Ba Na Garb
Derived from the group indigenous to central Vietnam, Ba Na garb is fashioned from heavier textiles, suitable for the cooler climate of the mountains. In times past both men and women wore loincloths with vests, accessorized with metallic beads and necklaces.
Worn to: Cultural ceremonies, daily life.
Ethnic Khmer Garb
Reflecting the Khmer presence in southern Vietnam, these costumes are often silk and strikingly patterned. Women wear brightly colored skirts and scarves, while men wear a simpler skirt with a sash.
Worn to: Religious events, weddings.
Vietnamese Royal Garb
Worn by emperors and the elite, the Ao Dai Nguyen Phuc, characterized by ornate detailing and fine fabrics, is the most notable example. In contemporary contexts, these can be seen in performance or cultural exhibitions.
Worn to: Historical demonstrations, cultural shows.
Dao Garb
Known for their indigo-dyed textiles, the Dao people's clothing is steeped in meaning with symbolic embroidery. Women fashion elaborate tunics over trousers, men plain tunics.
Worn to: Important ceremonies, communal events.
FAQ
Can I wear a black dress to a Vietnamese wedding?
Avoid black at Vietnamese weddings, it is associated with mourning. Wear bright colors, in keeping with the festive atmosphere.
What is the most famous fabric in Vietnam?
Silk is the most prestigious, the quality and workmanship in Vietnamese silk can be seen in the Ao Dai and other national dress.
What shoes to wear with Ao Dai?
Plain, graceful shoes work well with the flowing fabrics of an Ao Dai, try understated flats or low heels.
What are some traditions in Vietnam?
Vietnam has many traditions, from the national Tet (Lunar New Year) holiday to ancestor worship and celebrations at a host of local festivals. These all illuminate a rich history and diverse culture of the country.
Summary
From the grace of the Ao Dai to the colorful diversity of Vietnam's ethnic wear, Vietnamese costumes bring to life the cultural richness of the nation. More than mere clothing, they speak to a people's identity, one shared with pride to this day.
Get to the heart and soul of Vietnamese culture with a study of these traditional dress styles.